Why the Dead Sea wasn’t quite as I imagined

As I drive down to 400m below sea level, the landscape becomes drier and drier. The temperature rises and the stone desert looks like a hostile environment in which nothing ever grows or stays alive. I love those barren landscapes, a proof of the overpowering forces of nature.

I am on my way to Ein Gedi, an Israeli oasis on the west side of the Dead Sea. Hotels and therapeutic resorts spruce up, ready to accommodate the thousands of tourists looking for mud, sulphur baths and various health treatments.

I don’t really want to go to a spa or hotel. My plan is to drive down to the shore,  spread out my towel on a deserted stretch of beach where I will cover myself in an abundant amount of mud, rinse it off only to revive with a perfectly soft and creamy skin. Turns out the plan didn’t quite work out that way…
You see, people don’t do the mud-thing right by the beach, simply because there IS no mud there. The beach is a sandy, very salty affair, but mud… no.  If you want to experience a mud treatment, you simply have to go to one of the spas. Reluctantly I opt for the””Ein Gedi Spa”.
Bathing suits on, I am shown towards the garden where a trough full of mud awaits me. I get stuck in, slathering the pretty cold mud on every inch of my body. It isn’t quite as glamorous as I thought it would be, but good fun nonetheless! And definitely worth it: after a hot shower, my body feels smoother than ever!


But THE thing to do for a perfect Dead Sea experience is of course to float and take that oh-so famous “reading newspaper in the Dead Sea picture”.  A 20 minute walk through dry and barren grounds takes me to the shore. On the way down, indicate the shore level in 1990, in 2000, … a clear proof that the Dead Sea is shrinking and drying up at an alarming rate of 1m every year!

I never feel very comfortable in water, so I ask my friend Ursula to go in first, just to make sure the whole floating thing isn’t just a myth… Turns out it isn’t. Ursula is floating peacefully on the salty surface. Reassured and putting on a brave face, I make my way into the water.  My first impression is, that apart from being salty, it is a very oily affair too! I lean backwards, still not 100% at ease, until my back touches the water surface. And then, finally, I float…well, for a few seconds at least. You see I wasn’t quite expecting small waves in the Dead Sea! So with the little movement they create, I soon manage to splash salt water into my eyes. Trust me, you do not want that! Do I look relaxed in this picture? Nope, didn’t think so! 

Dead Sea experience

After ten minutes I have enough. Turns out floating is a pretty boring affair after a while…  My skin is bone dry by then, cancelling all beneficial effects I had earlier on from the mud treatment…

Determined to go healthy again, I head for the sulphur baths, a very well known treatment for arthritis and all sorts of pain relief.  Now, I want you to bear that in mind when you enter those baths, cause your first reaction will be one of nausea and utter disgust. Turns out sulphur has the not so pleasant side-effect that it smells like rotten egg! I soak for about 15 minutes in the hot, though still smelly, waters.

At the end of the day, I leave the Dead Sea with the feeling that my hair and skin are damaged for life because of the salt and I am also convinced that I am spreading a horrible whiff!
Not quite the pampering I had in mind when setting off…

What’s your Dead Sea experience? Have you ever pictured something that turned out quite different? Looking forward to reading it in the comments!

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11 Replies to “Why the Dead Sea wasn’t quite as I imagined”

  1. Anna Parker

    I was disappointed that it wasn’t remote and peaceful but I think we got lucky with the hotel our friends took us road it was quiet and sheltered. My skin the day after seriously felt the softest ever but I didn’t use any mud. I would like to try the east side, I think it is quieter

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  2. suzanne

    sorry to here that it wasn’t all that great. Here on the Jordan side, you can just go down to the shore (i wouldn’t really call it a beach, but its where the land meets the sea!) and head straight in, if you are prepared to do a little digging at the waters edge you’ll find the mud – usually a lot better stuff than you find in the bins at the spas! and by digging a mean just under the top layers of salt that are in the very shallow water, you don’t have to go with a shovel! However, because of the oil and salt there does tend to be a lot of flies in the area, so we recommend going to a spa or private beach club where they use smoke and sprays in the evenings to keep the amount of flies down. also if you are at one of the beach clubs you can have a shower afterwards – so you don’t go home salty and smelly! If you ever fancy trying it again (I highly recommend it!) hy not try it on the other shore in Jordan. 🙂

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  3. Jessica

    I swam, I mean floated in the Dead Sea a few years ago! It was a fantastic experience and would LOVE to go back sometime. We didn’t have enough time to cover ourselves in the mud, but hopefully I’ll get another chance to do so! 🙂

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  4. Bailey K.

    So beautiful. I can’t wait to go there and float just like that picture! I wonder if there’s somewhere along the Dead Sea that has calmer water. 🙂

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  5. Nina

    Ow, I also thought taking a mud bath would be more glamorous! 🙂 Still, it looks like a lot of fun. I’ve been to the dead Sea once, but it was such a long time ago I can hardly remember the surroundings (we’re talking at least 15 years ago!), except that floating wasn’t as easy as it looked. Would love to go back, especially when looking at your pictures!

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