Celebrating Semana Santa in Andalucia

The sound of the rattling metal ball and chain is disturbingly lugubrious as the penitents walk barefoot on the cobbled streets of Ronda. The attentive public watches them in utter and complete silence.
Tonight is the night of “El Silencio”, probably the most impressive procession during “Semana Santa” or “Holy Week”.

semana santa in Spain Ronda

Semana Santa is one of the most important celebrations in Andalucia, southern Spain. It is  the annual commemoration of the “Passion of Christ” and every city has its own traditions.
The one in Ronda is my first one, but it has definitely left a big impression on me! I can not help but being astonished by the motivation of the penitents! Some of them do it out of religious beliefs, other ones purely out of tradition!

The next day, I make my way to Sevilla, the motherhood of all processions and probably the most famous Semana Santa celebration! The city prepares itself for its most beautiful night, called “La Madruga’”, meaning “the early morning”. It becomes immediately clear why it is called like that: most of the processions only start between midnight and 3am and some of them contain more than 5000 nazarenos (penitents) !!
The inhabitants of Sevilla spend the evening and night waiting by the side of the road, eating and playing the occasional card game: it looks like a huge family night-out!
I find the wait long and tiring, but then finally, the pasos (big wooden sculptures representing Jesus or the Virgin Mary) arrive! People applaud and cry, while the music enhances the feeling of “suffering”. From the balconies people start singing “saetas”, religious hymns.

I get back to the hostel at 5.30am! Absolutely knackered from the waiting and battling with the crowds, but this must truly be one of the most impressive celebrations I’ve ever witnessed!

My third Semana Santa celebration is of a totally different kind. I arrive in Cartajima, the small mountain village where I volunteered at a boutique hotel a few weeks before. Upon my arrival I call Silvia, the cleaner. She is involved in the local womens’ organization and will show me how Easter is celebrated.

I start off helping the local women preparing ham, olives and cheese for the big party. Meanwhile, children and adolescents scare the whole village with firecrackers that explode when you least expect it! After that it’s off to the church, where a statue of baby Jesus is stripped and new clothes are put on for the occasion. Even if I’m not religious I feel truly honoured to participate in this community!

The next day is the BIG day, Easter. In Cartajima this means the day of “Las Cortesias”, where a statue of the Virgin Mary and Jesus finally reunite. But the most impressive thing is the explosion of Judas! Literally! People shut their doors and windows when fire-crackers are put onto a petrol-drenched puppet of Judas and after a loud bang, everything literally explodes!!

In the afternoon, the village square is filled with drinks, music and food and everyone comes together to chat, have fun and dance! What a fantastic way to celebrate Easter!

Have you been to the Semana Santa in Spain? Or anywhere else? Looking forward to your comments!

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34 Replies to “Celebrating Semana Santa in Andalucia”

  1. Martha

    Semana Santa brings back so many great memories (I am spanish and have been celebrating it since I was a kid).

    Reply
  2. Stacey Veikalas

    WOW very cool to get to see this festival in Spain, I have actually seen it in Mexico and it was very similar. I love to see the historic/religious festivals while traveling – Your photos are great as well. Thank you for sharing. 🙂

    Reply
  3. Of Coffee and Crackers

    We Filipinos were highly influenced by our Spanish conquerors in having our strong Catholic beliefs. (Well, that’s according to history).

    That’s why it’s not a surprising thing seeing this, reading about your Semana Santa Experience in Spain. 🙂

    Reply
  4. Rosey

    That’s interesting to hear about their tradition and how they’re spending quality time together as a community. I love the pictures. I’d like to visit the area too. 🙂

    Reply
  5. Rally L.C.

    Oh, how I miss Spain! It is truly a remarcable country and there are so many places, so many traditions to see. I was studying there (Barcelona) for a semester and I had such a great time. I loved reading about your adventure!

    Reply
  6. Roch

    We also witness some of those processions here in the Philippines since a lot of Filipinos are Catholic. It’s also great to visit Spain for that.

    Reply
  7. Danielle

    I love the pictures especially that first picture. My son is standing next to me and he said that he wants to go there and that we should leave tonight…lol

    Reply
  8. HilLesha

    I have always wanted to visit Spain, and thanks for clearing it up that those weren’t pictures of the KKK. Otherwise, that would have been strongly off-putting. 🙂

    Reply
  9. Sandy

    El Silencio is such a festive occasion. I’ve never been to Spain before but love living moments through others pictures. Thanks for sharing. What’s a must-see place in Spain?

    Reply
    • Els Post author

      The whole of Spain is worth visiting to be honest, but my personal favourites would be the Andalusian cities of Sevilla, Cordoba and Granada

      Reply
  10. Franc Ramon

    Spain and the Philippines have similar holy week or semana santa tradition because the Philippines used to be a colony of Spain. It must surreal experiencing it though in Spain.

    Reply
  11. Sandra @ Tripper

    Both Portugal and Spain are very religious countries but I think Spain beats us! Semana Santa is visually beautiful and, even if you’re not a religious person, you can’t detach yourself from the ceremonies and the emotion. It’s like they mix religious with pagan ceremonies. Anthropologists delight!

    Reply
    • shere @shereypaul

      You were very lucky to experience one of the biggest “celebration” in Spain. As you said, celebrating Semana Santa is not only for religious people. My first big Semana Santa was also in the south, in Malaga, when I was 7 years old, so you can imagine how impressed I was 🙂

      shere

      Shere y Paul

      Reply
  12. james

    Takes me back to when I spent some time in Andalusia – such a great part of Spain. And Semanta Semana is is truly weird and wonderful festival.

    Reply

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